The Headdress of a Radiant State, the Robe of a Righteous Nation, the Belt of Stability, the Vest of Sovereignty, and the Boots of Support

Traditional Mongolian clothing is one of the most distinctive and credible representations of Mongolian national identity and culture. These garments are deeply intertwined with the harsh climate of Mongolia, the nomadic lifestyle centered around livestock herding, traditional values, cultural reverence, and long-standing social customs.

The clothing of the various Mongolic peoples reflects their unique ethnic identities, marked by distinctive features and craftsmanship that often carry clan-specific symbols. The primary items of traditional Mongolian clothing—hat, deel (robe), belt, vest, and boots—each hold symbolic significance:

• Headdress of a Radiant State (Mandakh töriin malgai): A pointed cap with a sharp, upright top, symbolizing integrity, clarity, and the rising prosperity of the wearer.
• Robe of a Righteous State (Tegsh töriin deel): A straight, balanced robe representing harmony and the dignified posture of an individual.
• Belt of Stability (Bütekh töriin büs): Symbolizes unity, cohesion, and the power to bind and consolidate.
• Vest of Sovereignty (Khaan töriin khantaaz): Worn during formal ceremonies, this vest affirms one’s citizenship and honor, considered an official state attire for both men and women.
• Boots of Support (Tüshikh töriin gutal): Represent a firm foundation, support, and balance, as they cover the feet—the body’s physical base.

Mongolian Hat (Malgai)

Among all traditional garments, the hat holds the highest significance, symbolizing a person’s social rank and dignity. There are over 200 types of Mongolian hats, including the toortsog (soft cap), loovuz (winter fur hat), and shovgor malgai (pointed ceremonial hat), each varying by season, gender, and age.

Mongolian hats are categorized based on their crown styles—toortsog (flat top), duulga (helmet-shaped), or tug oroitoy (flag-topped). The crown may have sunray-like stitches indicating tribal origin, a red topknot (zalaa) representing eternal fire and cosmic harmony, and two long red tails symbolizing prosperity and blessing.

Fur linings, including lamb, fox, sable, and mink, are commonly used. Stepping on a hat by accident is taboo; it must be lifted with the right hand and purified over a fire. Hats should be placed above belts or garments, never upside down. Participation in any ceremony requires wearing a hat. The golden top (sampin) symbolizes rising fortune, while the red crest signifies the sacred eternal flame. The visor is linked to courage and spiritual vitality, and the two tails represent blessings. Thus, wearing another’s hat or lending yours is strictly prohibited.

Wearing the visor backward symbolizes misfortune, disgrace, or criminal punishment. If one must wear someone else’s hat, it’s customary to dab it with one’s own saliva—a ritual to neutralize taboos. Losing a hat is akin to losing one’s head. A hat found on the road is never picked up. Hats should not be stacked atop one another, as it signifies duality of mind or repeated marriages. As people say, “Honor the headdress of the rising state and the belt of completeness.”

Mongolian Deel (Robe)

The Mongolian deel is a cross-collared, long-sleeved robe with a central or side fastening, designed to accommodate the nomadic lifestyle and harsh climate. Its structure has remained relatively unchanged for centuries. Ancient rock paintings depict early forms of robes made from sheepskin, suggesting that Mongolian-style clothing has existed since prehistoric times.

The deel is multifunctional: its wide sleeves can serve as mittens, and its broad belt provides lumbar support. Nomads also use their deel as a blanket during travels.

Mongolian Belt (Büs)

Mongols believe that a person’s soul resides in the knife, hat, and belt. The belt signifies one’s wealth and status and comes in many forms—fabric, leather, silk, silver, or gold. Ancient nobility wore belts adorned with precious metals and stones, called agsargan büs. These featured clasps and pendants used to hang weapons or personal items such as knives, bows, and flasks.

Belts were exchanged during peace rituals or brotherhood ceremonies as symbols of friendship. Royal belts, such as those from the Yuan dynasty preserved in Asian art museums, feature dragon motifs (three, five, seven, or nine dragons), intricate designs, and mythological scenes like the golden swallow that brought fire to humanity.

It is taboo to drag a belt on the ground—it is said to bring misfortune and weaken one’s spirit. A belt must be wound clockwise with its end tucked downward. Short belts are believed to signify poverty. Tucking the end from bottom to top symbolizes decline. Using rope or string as a belt is a sign of hardship. Men must never let women touch their belt.

There is a custom to coil the belt into a sacred knot and place it under one’s pillow, symbolizing the protection of one’s spirit and aspirations. A man never wears a woman’s belt, and worn-out belts must be respectfully burned, not discarded. Stepping over a belt is strictly forbidden.

Mongolian Boots (Gutal)

Traditional Mongolian boots are made of leather with stitched soles and upturned toes. Over 20 ethnic groups in Mongolia produce their unique versions of the gutal, each with its own cultural expression.

Boots vary greatly—e.g., Mongol boots, Buryat boots, Oirat goson, tsarag, tookhoo, and wrestling boots. They are often named by the number of ornamental swirls (ugalz) they feature—ranging from 8 to 32.

The upturned toes prevent damage to the earth, symbolizing respect for nature. Noble boots were crafted using complex leather inlay techniques or silk embroidery. Patterns on the instep often carry protective animal motifs and symbols of longevity or fortune.

Ornaments and Accessories

Mongolian clothing is often adorned with gold and silver decorations. Men’s belts typically hold a traditional knife (khet), cup holders, snuff pouches, and sometimes small containers for flint and tinder. Women, except for some groups like the Myangad and Buryats, also wore various silver ornaments.